Not getting cold, fridge is running but won’t get cold. When I got gas cert pretty sure it got cold but when hooked up to electricity the fridge is running but won’t get cold. Any ideas or help?

The most important thing is that the fridge is 100% level.

Place a spirit level in the freezer box and level carefully whilst doing this testing – turn thermostat on full and leave on overnight – next morning you should have a minus temp in the fridge section. If working on Gas then the fridge should work on 230volt – is the back of the fridge getting hot (if not then the element could have failed). Also the selector switch could be playing up.


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Weight Distrubution

What is Weight Distribution and when do I need it?

One of the most common misconceptions we hear is Weight Distribution Hitches being referred to as ‘Sway Bars’ or ‘Leveller riders’.Weight distribution devices, like the name suggests, assist in the distribution of weight over both your towing vehicle and trailer axles.

What does a Weight Distribution Hitch do?

  1. Allows a smooth ride – A weight distribution system links your trailer, caravan or boat to your primary vehicle to share the load between the two, providing a smooth and level ride across all axles.
  2. Spreads the load – By using spring bars to apply leverage to both sides of your towing setup, the load weight that would otherwise be pushing down on the rear of your vehicle is transferred to all axles on both your vehicle and caravan or trailer.
  3. Provides greater control and capacity – The more you correct your tow vehicle sag, the more precise your steering and stopping is, allowing you to tow at the maximum capacity of your hitch (meaning you can move more at once)!

The Fastway e2 takes care of Weight Distribution AND has integrated Sway Control within the one system. Check out our Sales Manager Nigel’s set-up on his boat trailer!

When do I need Weight Distribution?

Weight distribution devices are recommended if;

  • your trailer weight is more than half of your vehicle’s weight,
  • the rear of your vehicle sags or its headlights point upward when hitched to your caravan,
  • your trailer sways from side to side while on the road due to poor weight dispersion on your trailer. This usually happens if there is too much weight behind the rear trailer axle (in some instances you will require an additional sway control device or integrated sway system to permanently remove sway)
  • you are finding it difficult to steer or brake safely when hitched up

My vehicle rises when I hitch up…

If the front of your vehicle rises more than 20mm or the back of your vehicle sags when you hitch up your caravan, you most likely need a weight distribution hitch to help balance the trailer load and ensure you are towing safely. An exception to this could be if your trailer and vehicle load is not correctly balanced – make sure you load the heaviest items over the axle of your towed vehicle to maintain safer load distribution. A general rule of thumb when loading your trailer is to load a maximum of 60% of your load in front of your trailer axle, and never more than 50% behind. Your tow ball weight should ideally be 10% of your Gross Vehicle Mass (GVM). If you find your vehicle is still sagging or rising, it is a clear sign you need a weight distribution hitch.

Measuring your vehicles

A good point of reference is to measure is your tow tug’s wheel arches from the top-centre of the wheel arch to a fixed point on the wheel (without your caravan hitched). When measuring your towed vehicle, it may be a bit more difficult as you will need to get the jockey wheel perfectly level (the figure should be the same when you measure the front and rear sides). Re-measure your wheel-arches again once you have hitched up your trailer to determine the difference. If you find a difference more than 20mm in any of the location points, you will need to first review your loading dispersion of the vehicle and trailer.

If you find that the wheel arches are still not level, it is a sign that you should use a weight distribution hitch to safely tow your trailer on highways and bumpy roads.

How do I choose a Weight Distribution System?

Like many towing accessories, there are a variety of types of weight distribution systems on the market. The main feature to determine when shopping for a weight distribution hitch is the load range that the device can accommodate. Before you begin, it is a good idea to find out the GVM of your trailer when loaded as well as the loaded and unloaded tow ball weight. This will help you decide which load range to buy. You should also make sure to check your chosen weight distribution hitch is compatible with both your vehicle and your towed vehicle. Some off-road hitches may not suit some weight distribution systems.   If you are unsure of what to look for, or how to determine if the hitch will be suitable for your needs, we are here to help!

This post was originally written by Titan Towing Systems

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Eberspacher Hydronic Heater Repair

hydronic diesel heater blowing smoke

This Stunning Iveco Earthcruiser arrived with the hydronic diesel heater blowing smoke and not heating. We found a combination of incorrect shut-down procedure, short runs and exhaust run not quite correct - had caused the fuel screen to clog. A good clean, replacement of the fuel screen and internal gaskets, small modification to the exhaust and the heater is running well.

Caravan aircon performance

Subject:Caravan air con.

Mike, you helped me over 2 years ago with our Dometic 8555 fridge, but I wouldn’t presume that you would remember me. We took delivery of a new Jayco 25.78/5 in early Sept. Van is fitted with Dometic Harrier inverter Air con. External air temp is 34. Air temp at air duct is 14. Unit is set at 18. Temp in van won’t drop under 24. Where we travel, outside air often exceeds mid 40’s. We had a Ibis a/c in our previous van (Jayco 21.64/3) and it performed better over all but still struggled occasionally. The new van has an additional 7 + cubic meters of internal space. I am convinced the Dometic unit will not cope. I need some advice. Do we look at a bigger capacity unit? Should we consider a second unit as a back up, if so what size, and can it be fitted? There is some room at the front roof section that may work. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.


The Harrier in theory/practice is a very powerful RV aircon.
The main issue we see, is if you allow all the furniture in the van to heat up, then the overall temp in the van will not drop until the furniture is cool. So the aircon needs to be on from 9am in the morning. If you have been running the aircon from early in the morning and still struggling to achieve lower temp then the only other solution would be to add additional air cooling (I am assuming the hairier is working to specification – if you measure the air going into the air con and measure it coming back pout we are looking for at least a drop of 12 degrees – from your info i guess it is working correctly).
Most buses we try to convince people to fit 2 aircons  – see the attached picture of Midnight oils tour bus with 4 aircons, this will actually work well.
To give you some comparison your car aircon is 6-9kw of cooling, the harrier is 3.1kw.
Also we can calculate a homes R value (insulation rating) but a caravan/RV, even if insulated well, is very thin, so almost impossible to calculate. More is always better.
My pick would be a Truma aventa – but we have lots of options, even an underbunk aircon if you can lose some storage space.

 Follow up reply from customer:

Mike, thanks for your reply. I followed your advice and have run the a/c non stop for a few days. This has cooled the van down to a more acceptable temperature. We also activated the small exhaust fan in the ensuite and placed an oscillating floor stand fan in the main body of the van during the hottest part of the day.
Results as follows.
Day time. External air temp 38/40. Internal air temp 24. Unit setting 18. Comfort level with oscillating fan is very acceptable.
Night time. Ext air temp, 24/27. Internal air temp 18/20. Unit setting 18. Oscillating fan not required.
Noise level is far more acceptable than the Ibis in our previous Silverline. No more banging and clunking as unit stops and starts. So far so good. Wife is happy, life is happy. Please feel free to use my comments if you feel they are relevant. Thanks once again. Regards, Philip

Our fridge has stopped working – RM361 3 way fridge

Hi, our fridge has stopped working and I was wondering if you provide a mobile service to come out and check it for us please?

no mobile service available – we will need to run the fridge for 4 to 6 hours to get a proper diagnosis on it.

Suggest you remove the fridge and drop it in to us – this is better as we can hook up our own element and run overnight to establish how well the cooling unit is working (or not working).

If you cant remove the fridge – then you will need to call and make an appointment to bring your van to us.

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Leveling legs on “A Class” Motorhome – Titan Redfoot Leveling System

Fitting of Levelling legs to Iveco motorhome.

This motor-home has a slideout with a 3 way fridge mounted into the actual slideout.

We set the Redfoot Leveling legs so the fridge is completely level.

This is one of the benefits of a system like the Titan Redfoot leveling system. The van once leveled does not sway as you move about the van.

We place the control module near the door so it is easy to step out and set the system to auto-level your motorhome.

The main hydraulic pump system is mounted into a lower locker (on this motorhome we choose to place it in a little used locker under the slide-out).

We mounted the legs quite high to ensure plenty of ground clearance will still providing 5 inches of lift.